First, V8 S Series would like to thank the following companies for their help in supplying the parts, discounts, and advice with this build. These guys and girls care about saving you money!
Magic Valley Hotrods (sfi flexplate install)
LSsimple (Accessory bracket review)
Hedman Hedders (Headers, motor mounts and trans support review)
Performance Dynamics Speed Shop (-an fuel lines and fuse block install)
Nitrous Express (Full nitrous system install and review)
Black Widow Exhaust (Muffler review)
R&R Torque Converters (Torque converter review)
Dougherty Racing Cams (Camshaft review)
So as you’ve been reading in the V8 S10 Owners Group on Facebook the work truck will be getting an 6.0 LS engine along with a 4l80e transmission.
It started with the hopes of being a budget build but we exceeded that figure rather quickly. Isn’t that always the case? As you will read in the weeks to come, we opted to upgrade some things that weren’t absolutely necessary and some that were.
The truck was a MESS…
Primer grey from a rattle can for paint and under the hood was a wiring NIGHTMARE!
So Jeff Trivett, Theo Trivett, Sean Dougherty, Rick Thorton and myself started hacking away at what was no longer needed. It looks pretty intimidating but it turned out to not be that bad. The guys put a lot of hard work into getting everything cleaned up.
She’s looking better already!
We scored at the junkyard a 2006 Hummer H2 6.0 liter (lq4) with 87,000 miles on the clock. ($1,700)
The engine was pretty stripped down and didn’t include any accessories. That added to the budget a bit. Not that we were going to use a lot of what was missing but it would have been nice to have things like the intake tube w/maf sensor, power steering pump, alternator, and starter. I could have used the water pump but I really liked the way the 2010 Corvette LSA water pump fit. Plus I wanted to gain the room of running F body spacing. Murphy Wallace had all of the right stuff to make that happen.
He provided his LSsimple bracket along with the spacers we would need to use the corvette pump. His kit came with every nut and bolt along with the belt. He took all of the guess work out of this part of the build. The only thing that I had to buy was the tension pulley. I think it was $20.
The first thing we did was to install the camshaft. For the ease of getting through this article in a timely manner, here is a link to an article that outlines everything you need to know.
I will however add, some have had luck with just spinning the camshaft to hold the lifters up in the cups. This would not have worked with our install. When we spun the camshaft, some of the lifters settled back down onto the camshaft. So because our engine was on the stand, we used gravity to our advantage. We loosened the rockers, spun the engine upside down and the cam slid right out.
John Dougherty has been grinding cams for 20+ years and the man knows his stuff! If you want a cam ground for your exact application, he is the guy to talk to. He is always in the group on Facebook to answer any questions you have. He also gives members 10% off. Our cam cost $360 plus $25 shipping. We had our cam in about 2 weeks. Here is what he came up with for our build.
Nothing outrageous for this build but we wanted a street friendly cam that we could have a little fun with at the track.
Our camshaft netted us 315 hp and 320 tq on the dyno.
This was our first dyno tune. Yes our first one. The dyno tuner we chose missed the mark. Our cold start was horrible, the transmission short shifted due to the computer not being adjusted for our new combo and we had a hanging idle problem.
Bare with me on the updates, V8 S Series is a one man show, and this man also has a family and owns his own home improvement company. Along with you folks keeping me quite busy in the group…. But I wouldn’t want it any other way. You guys and girls are awesome and without you, none of this would be possible!
So next we bolted on our Chevrolet Performance Musclecar Oil Pan Kit p/n 19212593. This is a great kit. It does however leave the oil pan about an inch lower than the cross member but we felt that it was acceptable.
That being said, we did opt to cut our cross member a bit to add some clearance. It just made it a lot easier to install the engine. But even with the trimming, we had to raise the cab off of the frame a bit.